Of Motor Mounts and Things

There are several items that need to be crafted from scratch when building a hot rod.  On this car, the motor mounts that supported the original 4-cylinder engine and tiny 3-speed transmission are far different from those needed for a V-8 engine and a modern 5-speed transmission.  The clutch linkage has to be designed and fabricated that ties the original clutch pedal to the new clutch.  Likewise, a master cylinder has to be acquired that will meet the needs of the car and fit within the limited space available, considering exhaust headers, starter location, available mounting surfaces, steering mechanism, etc.  Then a linkage has to be designed tying the original brake pedal to the new master cylinder.  And finally, a transverse fixture has to be designed to keep the engine and transmission from twisting too much as torque is applied to the drive shaft.  On the original 4-cylinder setup, this was accomplished by a leaf spring that extended from the bottom of the transmission to a snubber on the passenger-side frame rail.  Below are pictures of the fabrications that Deron Shady devised for each of these challenges.

Motor Mounts:

Front Motor Mount

Click on image to enlarge.

 

Rear Motor Mounts (connecting saddle passes under transmission)

 

Clutch Linkage:

Master Cylinder and Brake Linkage:

Torsion Stabilizer:

Looking toward front on passenger's side:                                              Looking toward rear, underneath engine:

  

Floorboards!

May 22, 2012 - Dan has now crafted the floorboards that will cover the transmission and provide a place for feet.  He has also built the panel that supports the bottom of the seat.  Originally, there would have been a steel plate covering a square hole under the driver's seat.  This would have been the location of the battery.  We'll be putting the battery elsewhere so one of the two exhaust pipes can pass under the driver's seat on its way to the rear of the car.   These floor panels are made of a high-grade 3/4" plywood and are recessed in the framing that Dan had already made.  They are held in place with screws and special recessed floorboard washers. 

Hidden Door Hinges

 

 The ability to have doors with no visible hinges is made possible by these very cleverly designed invisible hinges.  When I acquired the car, these were very "tired" but Dan has restored them to like-new condition.  When I see hardware items like this, I am extremely grateful that they were with the car.  I can't imagine searching for some of these hard-to-find bits and pieces!

A Strange Door Handle

May 18, 2012 - I proceed to the Shady shop today to check the status.  Dan says, "The fit on the driver's door is just about finished.  I'd like you to take a look.  Open and close it a couple of times to check out the action..."  Here's what greets me:

Right you are -- It's an old door knob and escutcheon plate. 

Very Funny!

By the way, the fit of the door is perfect!

And, on the right, the door sporting its correct door handle.  Interestingly, the open cars had differently designed door handles from the coupes and sedans.  I found a set on eBay after years of looking.

Fenders Back On

And by today, April 2nd, the fenders are back on for test fitting.  We have a few issues with past repairs having stretched the metal in a couple of places, but Dan assures me that these are minor.  It's really starting to look like a car again!

Back on the Chassis!

And so, in just a few short days, as I was on a well-earned vacation, the body finally made it back onto the chassis.  It gets bolted down with shims pretty much matching the shims that were there when we dismantled the car.  Then Dan measures clearances on all the panels and doors where they meet,  He then removes or adds shims to adjust the body and get everything in alignment.  In fact, this is probably way more attention to detail than was originally done at the factory.

Back on the Chassis (For Now)

And now, as we begin March, the body is coming back together!  The individual sections are now mounted on the "sills" (the full-length laminated ash beams that mount on the frame and support the body).  The next step will be to mount the sills on the frame and shim the sills to ensure that the body alignment is correct -- door gaps, etc.  Then we remove the body to finish restoring and painting the chassis.

And so, in just a few short days, as I was on a well-earned vacation, the body finally made it back onto the chassis.  It gets bolted down with shims pretty much matching the shims that were there when we dismantled the car.  Then Dan measures clearances on all the panels and doors where they meet,  He then removes or adds shims to adjust the body and get everything in alignment.  In fact, this is probably way more attention to detail than was originally done at the factory.